Cheng Du Street Food (蒼蠅館子) – A Taste of Old Chengdu Near Lansdowne

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black-and-white-mapo-tofu

Cheng Du Street Food (蒼蠅館子) is a Sichuan restaurant in a strip mall at 100-7911 Alderbridge Way in Richmond, just west of No. 3 Road and a short walk from Lansdowne Canada Line station. The original is in Toronto’s Chinatown, and this is the only BC location.

The Chinese name means “fly restaurant.” In Chengdu, that is slang for a small, no-frills neighbourhood spot where locals go for the food, not the room. People who grew up in Sichuan say this place tastes like home, and that is the main reason it gets talked about.

Cheng Du Street Food storefront on Alderbridge Way, Richmond
The storefront on Alderbridge Way.

The room

Inside, it is dressed up like an old Chengdu street. Wooden lattice partitions, grey brick-look walls, old newspapers pasted across the ceiling, and red calligraphy on the glass. It is rustic on purpose, casual, and best with a group of friends. Free sunflower seeds and fruit are on the table.

Lineups are normal here, so expect a wait at busy times. If you are in the area another day, Gingeri Chinese Cuisine in Lansdowne Centre is within walking distance for dim sum.

Retro old-Chengdu dining room at Cheng Du Street Food with wooden lattice and newspaper ceiling
Old-Chengdu decor: lattice, brick and a newspaper ceiling.

The mala

This is real mala. It is numbing and hot at the same time, not just chili heat. You can ask for milder, but milder here is still spicy. If some of your group can’t take much heat, add a few cold or non-spicy dishes to balance the table.

Black and white mapo tofu

Mapo tofu is one of the dishes this place is known for, and the black and white version (麻婆黑白无间) is the one to look for. “Black and white” means two kinds of tofu in one bowl: soft white tofu and dark pork-blood tofu. Both are cooked with minced beef in a deep red chili-oil sauce. The bowl is big, so it goes a long way with rice.

Black and white mapo tofu with soft tofu and pork-blood tofu at Cheng Du Street Food
Black and white mapo tofu with soft tofu and pork-blood tofu.

Pork kidney and liver

The stir-fried pork kidney and liver with chili (肝腰合炒) comes on a wide platter. It is loaded with liver slices, kidney, wood ear mushroom, red chilies, whole garlic cloves and scallion in red chili oil. Kidney and liver are among the dishes known to sell out here, so order it when it is available.

Stir-fried pork kidney and liver with chili at Cheng Du Street Food
Stir-fried pork kidney and liver with chili.

The rest of the table

Stir-fried instant noodles with ham sausage (王中王炒泡面): Instant noodles fried with sliced ham sausage, egg and bok choy, served in a bamboo basket. There is no chili on this one, so it is an easy pick for anyone who wants a break from the heat.

Stir-fried instant noodles with ham sausage and bok choy at Cheng Du Street Food
Stir-fried instant noodles with ham sausage and bok choy.

Osmanthus tomatoes with preserved plum (桂花冰梅小番茄): A cold starter of small tomatoes in a light osmanthus syrup with preserved plums, ice and a slice of lemon.

Cold osmanthus tomatoes with preserved plum at Cheng Du Street Food
Cold osmanthus tomatoes with preserved plum.

Bingfen (大满贯冰粉): Sichuan’s classic ice-jelly dessert. This “supreme” version piles red beans, raisins, rice, little rice balls and more on top of clear jelly in syrup. It is a cool way to finish a spicy meal.

Bingfen ice-jelly dessert with red beans, raisins and rice balls at Cheng Du Street Food
Bingfen ice-jelly dessert with red beans, raisins and rice balls.

What else it is known for

Portions are huge. One reviewer called it “a washbasin of food,” so come with a group and share. These are the other dishes people keep recommending:

  • Rabbit (尖叫兔): stir-fried with chilies, known for being very numbing.
  • Cold offal dishes: 夫妻肺片 (sliced beef and offal in chili oil) and 贡菜拌毛肚 (beef tripe with gong cai). The tripe is the dish diners recommend most.
  • Laziji (辣子鸡): fried chicken buried in dried chilies. One reviewer says it is better on the bone.
  • Pickled-bean and minced-pork fried rice (酸豆角肉末炒饭).
  • Boiled beef (水煮牛肉): sliced beef in a big bowl of chili oil.

Popular dishes do sell out, so have a backup in mind. If your group would rather do hot pot, Dolar Shop Richmond is another good place to share a big meal.

Price and payment

Prices are on the mid-to-high side, but the portions are big. Split several dishes between four or more people and it works out.

Payment is cash or debit only, so leave the credit card in your wallet.

How to get in touch

Address: 100-7911 Alderbridge Way, Richmond, BC V6X 2A4 (just west of No. 3 Road, a short walk from Lansdowne Canada Line station)
Phone: (778) 297-5885
Website: chengdustreetfood.ca
Instagram: @chengdustreetfood.ca
Hours: check Google Maps for current hours.
Payment: cash or debit only.

604 Food Critics Assessment

Cheng Du Street Food is known for authentic Chengdu cooking with real mala, big plates to share, and a fun old-Chengdu room. It is spicy even when you ask for milder, prices are on the mid-to-high side, and it is cash or debit only.

Come with friends who like heat, order a few dishes to share, and expect a lineup at busy times. Tip: if someone at your table prefers milder food, ask for less spice and mix in the non-spicy plates, like the fried instant noodles, the cold osmanthus tomatoes and the bingfen.

Food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Atmosphere: 5/5

Full marks across the board: this is the Richmond spot to bring friends who love real Sichuan heat.

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